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Black Tie
Dress code: “Black Tie” / “Cravate Noire”
The terms “Black Tie” and “Cravate Noire” are misleading, because this dress code has nothing to do with a tie. “Bow Tie” would be
more appropriate, since the bow tie is a staple of this look. For upscale events, guests are expected to wear elegant attire that looks more formal than what you’d wear on an important day at the office. Use this guide as a reference so you can look appropriately elegant on the big night.
Glamorous Events
Raise a toast to the bride and groom at an elegant wedding dinner, enjoy a theater premiere alongside distinguished guests, or adjust your bow tie before the gala begins. Tuxedos and bow ties are a must for official and festive occasions—the classic “black tie” dress code.
Originally, it was simply a matter of course for everyone to dress in their finest attire for evening events once the church clock had struck six in the evening. Since then, many variations have emerged: from “Red Carpet Black Tie” to “Festive Black Tie” to the more casual “Black Tie Optional” dress code. Today, the dress code is explicitly communicated to guests so that their attire matches the nature of the event.
“Black Tie” is a dress code that involves significantly more requirements than “Business Attire” or “Smart Casual.” Due to the public and festive nature of these events, strict adherence to the “Black Tie” and “White Tie” dress codes is expected. At a traditional “Black Tie” event, a tailored tuxedo (American: tuxedo; British: dinner jacket) is a must.
The Basic Equipment
The following items of clothing are included:
- a black, self-tied bow tie
- a tuxedo in black or midnight blue
- a white shirt with a wing collar
- a vest or cummerbund with a single-breasted jacket
- black patent leather lace-up shoes or smooth leather shoes
However, formal dress codes such as “Black Tie” would not be part of etiquette if there weren’t far more rules to follow than can be counted on one hand.
Small but mighty: The bow tie is the defining element of the entire dress code. If tied carelessly, not only will the bow tie stand out in a negative way, but the entire outfit will be adversely affected, and the wearer will immediately give the impression of being absent-minded. However, it’s also not wrong to allow for the occasional unpredictable deviation and to wear the bow tie with a bit more ease and nonchalance. Perfection isn’t expected, but for “black tie” events, a pinch of this nonchalance is sufficient. As a guideline for the width of the bow tie, use the eyes or the outer edges of the face—or, at most, the shirt collar—as a reference.
Braiding and cummerbund
A jacket with a single row of buttons is called a single-breasted jacket; a double-breasted jacket has two rows of buttons. If you choose a double-breasted jacket, it is usually kept buttoned up and therefore does not require a vest or cummerbund. Otherwise, you may choose either a cummerbund or a low-cut vest, in a color that matches the black bow tie.
Cummer…? Excuse me? A cummerbund is a wide silk sash that is tied around a man’s waist so that it covers the transition from the waistband of the pants to the shirt. When worn correctly, it forms several upward-pointing folds. In higher-quality models, the deepest of these folds contains an embroidered hidden pocket, so that opera tickets are immediately at hand.
Tuxedo pants have no belt loops because the belt is replaced by suspenders. A silk strip (known as a galon) runs along the side seam of the legs. Also omitted are cuffs on the pants (pleats at the bottom of the legs) and flaps on the pockets (known as piping). The double layer of fabric looks too casual for an elegant evening. Instead, the smooth fabric rests slightly on the black patent leather lace-up shoes and extends from the heel to the top of the heel. Smooth leather shoes are an acceptable alternative, provided they are polished to a high shine.
Now it's time to get down to business
A shirt seems so simple, and yet there are countless variations: Kent collars, shark collars, pointed collars, and “father-killer” collars—not to mention the buttons. For the “black tie” dress code, only the wing collar or the standard turn-down collar are acceptable. The wing collar is stiff, with the ends folded forward, making it the more modern version of the mandarin collar. A harmonious overall look is achieved when paired with an ascending lapel, made of a fabric that matches the silk or satin braid.
Among the few permissible visible buttons are only cufflinks, because the shirt’s button placket should be concealed. If there are any other buttons on the garment, they must be covered with fabric so as not to detract from the elegance of the harmoniously balanced combination of shapes and colors.
Attention to detail
A perfectly tailored evening outfit reflects a thoughtful, stylish choice when equal attention is paid to the details. The fit is right when there are no wrinkles at the back, the jacket buttons up easily, and the pants sit comfortably without a belt. A bulge in the back pocket caused by a thick wallet is not only uncomfortable when sitting but also detracts from the overall look. A money clip is sufficient for carrying the necessary loose change and important cards.
How you feel in this outfit is how you come across—literally: for example, your undershirt shouldn’t show through your shirt. White, finely woven underwear and black Knee High Socks ensure comfort under your outfit.
A scarf, a pocket square, or cufflinks offer the opportunity to express your personal style. Buttons in gold, silver, stainless steel, or black complement the color of your wristwatch and add the necessary sparkle. A pocket watch is an even better choice, since jewelry is not typically worn with a tuxedo.
A classic choice is a pocket square made of fine silk, often white or color-coordinated with a tuxedo scarf. It should protrude one centimeter from the breast pocket parallel to the edge of the pocket or be folded into a more modern triangle or crown fold.
Dress Code Guide
The Dress Code Guide helps you navigate everyday life with style. With a wealth of knowledge about casual, smart casual, business casual, business attire, black tie, and white tie dress codes, you’ll be prepared for any situation.
- An Overview of All Dress Codes
- Tips & Tricks for Every Style
- A handy format for when you’re on the go
Ladies' Choice
A man and a woman show that they are a couple by presenting a unified look together. If the gentleman is wearing a black tuxedo, the lady should wear a long evening gown. With a more modern midnight-blue tuxedo, an elegant cocktail dress that reaches at least to the knees is also appropriate. Women can enhance or simplify their look with accessories such as jewelry and a handbag. It is important to strike a balance between opulent or eye-catching elements and more understated ones.
"Black Tie Optional"
If guests are to be given more leeway regarding their attire, the invitation will include the words “Black Tie Optional” or “Alternative Black Tie.” This does not mean that the tuxedo can be left in the closet at will, but rather that individual variations are permitted—for example, a tie instead of a bow tie, a patterned suit instead of black, or a belt instead of suspenders. All in all, however, one should still adhere to the prescribed elements and keep the color scheme simple, except for deliberate accents.
“Festive Black Tie” and “Creative Black Tie” offer more freedom of interpretation. Outfits can be more eye-catching—for example, for the groom or best man at weddings—or more festive at Christmas events. Creativity is encouraged when the season or region is part of the theme. A white jacket, a cowboy hat, a flower in the lapel, or a colored shirt can certainly make for a great look, depending on the theme.
Casual
Business Casual
Smart Casual
Business Attire
Black Tie
